Most expensive roof repairs start as small problems that anyone could have spotted from the ground six or twelve months earlier. Granule loss in gutters, lifted shingle edges, sagging at the ridge, dark stains around penetrations — none of these require a roofer to identify. They require thirty minutes with binoculars and a checklist.
This guide is the thirty-minute checklist. Walk the perimeter of your house twice — once at ground level looking up, once with binoculars working systematically across each roof plane — and you will catch 80% of developing problems before they cost real money.
The 12-point inspection
Work through the list in order. For each item, you are looking for changes from the previous inspection — not absolute condition. A roof that has been like this for ten years and looks the same as it did five years ago is probably fine; one that has visibly changed in the past year is the one to investigate.
- Walk the perimeter at ground level. Look at the roofline from each side. Is the ridge straight? Are the eaves level? Sagging anywhere indicates structural problems beneath the roof.
- Inspect gutters for granule accumulation. Asphalt shingles shed granules throughout their life; small amounts are normal. Heavy granule buildup (more than a thin layer in the bottom of the gutter) means the shingles are at end-of-life or are failing prematurely.
- Check downspouts for granule wash-out at the bottom. Same rule as gutters — small amounts normal, heavy washout signals trouble.
- Look for missing, lifted, or curled shingles. Missing or visibly lifted shingles need replacement immediately to prevent water entry. Curled shingles indicate end-of-life.
- Examine flashing at chimneys, walls, dormers, and skylights for visible damage, lifted edges, or rust streaks. Flashing failures are the most common source of leaks.
- Check plumbing vent boots for cracks or visible deterioration. The rubber gaskets degrade in 10-15 years and are a common leak source.
- Look at the underside of eaves and soffits for water staining, peeling paint, or visible damage. Stains here indicate gutter overflow or ice-dam history.
- Inspect the chimney for cracked masonry, missing crown, or loose flashing.
- Check trees for branches within 6 feet of the roof. Branches that touch or hang close abrade shingles, drop debris in valleys, and provide rodent access.
- Inside the attic: look for water stains on rafters or sheathing, mould or moisture, daylight visible through the deck, and damaged insulation. Daylight or stains indicate active leaks or recent ones.
- Check the ventilation: all soffit vents clear, all ridge vents clear, no signs of pest infiltration.
- Photograph anything noteworthy. Date-stamped photos let you track changes over time and document insurance claims if needed.
When to call a professional
Call a professional roofer for any of: visible sagging or structural concerns, active leaks, missing or visibly damaged flashing at chimneys or walls, more than ~5% of shingles missing or curled, daylight visible through the roof deck from inside the attic, water stains on rafters or sheathing.
Call a structural engineer (not just a roofer) for any sagging that affects the rafters or ridge. Structural roof problems can indicate framing failure that requires engineered repair.
For the items above, the cost of professional inspection is much smaller than the cost of letting the problem progress. A roof inspection is $150-400; a structural assessment is $300-800. Catching a flashing failure early is a $500-1,500 repair; letting it run is a $3,000-10,000 interior damage repair.